A large percentage of men are faced each morning with the ordeal of putting on a suit . Others only do it occasionally on large occasions. But everyone, sooner or later, always asks the same thing: “Do I get along well?” From Unique Code we give you the keys that you must follow to have no doubt about how to wear a suit .
Neither Photoshop can sometimes overcome the vision that the mind gives us back to ourselves. The brain is always there to lend us a hand when we need to deny reality or reinforce our assertions. This can make us come to believe the Spanish incarnation of Toni Servillo (the elegant protagonist of the impeccable Italian film The Great Beauty ), when we really look more like any of the protagonists of Borgen (if you find someone well dressed in that Danish series , please let us know).
A suit is not a tracksuit
No matter how hard we try, comfort is not the greatest of its virtues. Depending on the pattern or the materials used to make it, a suit may be more or less comfortable – and it must be recognized that each day is more so – but it is not the most suitable garment for watching television. So the size should be correct. You have to look for the fit that fits the body in a more natural way, but that does not imprison it. This little detail will even help you to correct your body posture, since your jacket or braces will make you put your back together at all times and make a better impression. Did you know this other utility?
The American has its codes
Quiet, there are only two and they are not complicated to memorize. It is a question, as in almost everything in this life, of using logic. The first one is very simple: the American one is fastened when we are standing up and unbuttons the moment we sit down (this way it helps us to put ourselves in the chair). To this we must add a second rule, for which we will resort to a brief history class. The generous outline of the body of the British King Edward VII and the courtly atmosphere that wanted to ingratiate himself with the monarch made it fashionable to wear the last button of the open jacket; since then, the knights leave without buttoning the last button of their jackets. This unwritten detail or norm with a historical flavor applies to both the single-button buttons (either two or three buttons) and the crusades.
The collar of the shirt, neither fair nor baggy
Its perfect size is that which leaves space only for two fingers when we wear it with a tie . Once the size is chosen, we will begin a lesson in neck types. The most used are English and French (the classic image of the neck to which we are accustomed) and Italian, which differs clearly by being the one that makes the tie more visible. The one in tuxedo , with those little fins, we will reserve it for the big occasions; that of buttons, invented by Brooks Brothers, for more sporting moments ; and the pin collar has a vintage flavorthat, if we know how to get along, can give us great joys. This part of the shirt also encloses one of the most discreet jewels of male clothing: the whales that keep the tips of the neck in place can be made of any material, including silver.
The socks, what color?
Much has been said about the color of the socks and, despite everything, we still do not have it completely clear. The uninitiated in the tailoring adventure the best they can do is look for socks that match the color of the suit (never with the shoes). On the other hand, for those who want to go one step further, Jeremy Hackett, who knows a lot about suits, advises playing with colors, making a little wink and leaving the whole ojiplático world when they see peep under the pant leg models in red , polka dots, yellow … The key is to know how to combine and not to overdo it. There will be some who believe that we are English; let’s believe it.
The tie : eye to colors and knots
Although the tie lives now its lowest hours, is an accessory that we should never let go if we really appreciate the masculine style. Although casualism is imposed, a gentleman not only has to know how to wear a tie , but also to control the different knots that exist. The first thing is to take care of the size of the shovel. Right now the most correct thing is to bet on a medium term (neither too wide nor too narrow). Later we will analyze which colors feel better to us and if we choose striped or patterned patterns. Ryan Gosling defends a return to the 40s -that is already in taste-, but remember that a graceless tie is forgiven earlier than one from Carrascal. On knots, depending on the thickness of the fabric, choose a Windsor, a Windsor medium or a simple one.
Beware of the bottom of the pants
It is a very ingrained custom in our country to let the pant leg rest on the heel of the shoe. In fact, there are still many tailors and dependents who give all kinds of reasons to defend this theory. Error! That ends up generating a series of bags that make the pants do not look like ours. In addition to being unsightly, it generates a silhouette without proportion that flattens us, and it is a pity that that happens when the suit can stylize us. The correct measurement is one that rubs our shoes and that allows the sock to be seen sensibly. Of course, we have to be careful: we must ensure that the twin will not be naked if we cross our legs.
Or laces or buckles, nothing more
The moccasins must be left in the closet when we wear a suit. The most correct thing is to wear lace shoes, either Oxford, with Prussian stitching (with the part of the shoe that joins the tongue sewn below the front, making the tongue almost unnoticeable) and more formal , or Derby, with English stitching (with the front part over the side) and with a more relaxed last that gives them a more sporty point. Along with them, we can also use the buckles shoes (in English, monkstrap ). And, exceptionally, as a tribute to Felipe VI (very fan of this model), Tassel moccasins, tassels.
And the upper pocket of the jacket?
It is not there as an observer of the UN or a blue helmet. It has its function and is none other than to hold a beautiful handkerchief that will never be the same pattern as the tie. You can choose a sober and classic version, such as white, or give it an original twist and play with both the volume and the prints. If you need a reference to get an idea, look carefully at all the images of Prince Charles of England; He is a master of the subject and even wears a red polka dot with a tuxedo .
Belt? And why not suspenders?
Maybe he has never considered wearing suspenders, but it’s time to do it. The belt has been a good travel companion, but we all know that the first girlfriend is rarely the definitive one. The braces are really the best option to adjust a suit. Ask your tailor to sew a series of buttons inside the pants to pin them from there through the clamps (there are also models with tweezers). You will notice the difference. Then choose if you prefer them in X (preferably to wear a vest ) or in Y (to look alone).
The three-quarter coat is not the only option
The three-quarter coat, despite being the perfect one, is not the only option to wrap up. If you want to give a more youthful look to your look, the trench coats and parkas can be good allies. Another option in vogue, especially if it is a fan of clean energy and travel by bicycle, are padded vests . You decide in this case if you choose to wear them inside or outside the jacket and if you want them with more or less volume. As for colors, the wisest option is black or blue.